How to achieve beautiful solid colors?

How to achieve beautiful solid colors?

Attached to her ART-à-PORTERthe team ARTIST provokes great encounters between artists, their collections and YOU!

The concept ARTIST is to bring to life, to animate paintings or other works that are as attractive as they are touching. ARTIST gives them substance through original shapes and exclusive prints.

François and Brigitte also put at your disposal combinations combining an incredible range of plains with the rich fantasies of their themes. It's a recurring event from now on and from the next half of December, you will discover the new shades of "Super Lycra" that you already love or that you will very quickly adopt!

Before telling you everything about this session from December 3 to 12, we wanted to talk to you about the dyeing techniques to obtain superb plains. Artisanale or industrial, the dyeing brings a plus-value to textile materials by offering them durable and uniform colors. What does this actually consist of? ennoblement ?

In craftsmanship, a few shades are naturally obtained:

• Blue: in addition to indigo, we also use woad leaves or dyers' pastel, or even clerodendron berry;
• From brown to black: walnut hulls, coffee, cabbage, willow or buckthorn bark;
• Yellows: Paraguayan tea, chamomile flowers, maple, wormwood, blackberry, turmeric;
• Reds: madder, cochineal (vermilion), henna; 
• Greens: horsetail, minium, carob seeds, elderberries;
• From purple: black hollyhock, marigold flower, logwood.

The industrial and/or artisanal side is found in the structures and infrastructures that a dye house must have. Starting from a basic process, the interpretation made by the dyer differs depending on the machines available, the presentation of the goods to be dyed (fill, threads, knitting, fabrics, lace, passementerie, ...), the use for which the article is intended, etc.

Generally speaking, a dye must correspond to the final use of the garment. For this purpose we use the term “ solidity », that is to say its ability to resist certain attacks, such as: 

• the lightthe washing, the chlorine or sea water, the dry cleaning, the acid sweat or alkaline, the friction, …

The process consists of applying a precise color to a support made up of fibers. Unlike inks for'textile impression which are deposited on the surface, the colorant The dye impregnates the treated material deeply and evenly.

Industrial dyeing, processes and machines

The different techniques, machines and classes of colorants available make it possible to dye practically all types of textile materials (including mixed ones) at any stage of their manufacture: fibre, infabric or clothing. 

1. Carded wool dyeing : textile fibers can be dyed before spinning, in an autoclave. 
2. Dyeing on thread / woven-dyed: we dye the yarn to weave patterned fabrics (jacquard) and excellent quality canvases. 

Your " Super Lycra », this special “Cotton/Polyamide/Lycra” material is dyed before cutting and making; it is the roll of fabric (the piece) which is immersed in the tank.

Fouling: The piece of fabric is drawn into a dye bath. 

In a boat: in a hose or offshore, the fabric is alternately pulled out of the bath, then plunged back into it in folds using a turnstile system.

In jet: the gut fabric, generally knit, circulates in a tube. It is driven by the dye bath from the bottom of the machine to the top.

On overflow: at high or low pressure, the movement of the fabrics depends on the flow and movement of the bath.

In autoclave on beam: after having been wound on a fixed perforated cylinder (the beam), the broad fabric is placed in an autoclave in order to be colored in a bath which circulates at high temperature (> 100°C) and under pressure.

On Jigger: the pieces of woven fabric only are dyed offshore, immersed in a low-volume dye bath in which they circulate several times, thanks to a back-and-forth system managed by rollers.

4. Finished item dyeing: Quick and economical, finished product dyeing so-called “plunge dyeing” has been used since the 1980s to adapt more quickly to fashion. It allows you to color theset already made. Sewing threads take dye just as well as the main material.

 Artisanal dyeing

The artisan dyeing does not only allow you to uniformly color a textile, but also to compose patterns. Several traditional methods exist around the world, based on dyeing techniques.to the reserve” (a process which prevents the dye from diffusing onto certain areas in order to create a negative pattern).

• Ligatures : Tie and dye in the West, Bandhani an Inside, Shibori in Japan or cryin Indonesia

Ligature dyeing relies on pleating and tying before dyeing. The different knots, zigzags or waves are monochrome or polychrome thanks to successive dye baths. 

• Couture : In West Africa and Indonesia, we sew the previously folded or pleated fabric using strong thread or raffia. The textile is then dyed, dried and stripped of sewing threads to reveal linear patterns.

• Batik

Batik developed in India, Asia and Africa where it probably inspired the something. We draw a pattern with wax on a stretched textile, before dipping it in the dye. Once dry, the textile is free of wax.

• Tie

Weaving and dyeing are mixed. Depending on the region of the world, it is a dyeing of sections of thread before weaving so as to form a multi-colored pattern of great finesse on the finished fabric.

The laboratory and production

Colorist, formulator, technician, sampler, their technical color expertise meets the specifications. In the workshop, machine operators and drivers ensure all stages from preparation to finishing and quality control. Chemical post-treatments will waterproof or soften; mechanical post-treatments will modify the possibly embossed or aged aspects and/or the feel like a rose petal or peach skin!

The colorants

Adjusting the color of a colorant is based on the principle of subtractive color synthesis: only the 3 primary colors of the color wheel are used (cyan, magenta and primary yellow). The dyer mixes them in varying proportions to obtain the desired shade.

Around ten coloring substances are of natural origin (plants, invertebrates), while several thousand dyes are of synthetic origin, from the chemical industry. These are divided into 2 main classes: soluble or insoluble in water.

The affinities between dyes and textile materials vary enormously: it is above all the nature of the fibers 

(cellulosics, wool and silk, synthetics, polyester, acrylic, acetate)  to dye which determines the type of dye to use.

Respect for societal and environmental standards 

Among the most demanding in the world, European obligations have led our partners, convinced by the evidence of ecology, to adopt charters and get involved. Many are Oeko-Tex certified for textiles in contact with the skin. Their factories are equipped with classified installations for the protection of the environment. Their wastewater is first treated on their site via their own pre-treatment station then by the municipal station. 

All these dyeing techniques involve a high level of know-how in impressively modern workshops but depending on the location, you can believe yourself to be transported to a completely different era and witness the transmission of ancestral gestures. 

For the development of its ranges of plain fabrics, ARTIST works hand in hand with its local dyers who remain French or Italian. The colors are carefully chosen and then developed to achieve radiance and harmony in all your coordinates.and.